Restoring an old anchor

[DaveWalsh]

I found a large anchor two years ago. I scraped it. I painted it with rust paint (the brown stuff, I forget its name). I painted it black. The process is a failure. It weeps an oily substance and brown rusty stains grow ever larger around it. My ignorance astounds me, though you might think, perhaps unkindly, that I should be accustomed to it by now. Unless this huge anchor is to be lost forever, I need help.
Today I read an article in a magazine about the preservation of the guns on Derry’s walls, Roaring Meg and all that. Apparently they were in a desperate state 10 years ago, and now they aren’t really needed anymore, for shooting with anyway, so nowadays they are a tourist attraction. I visited them earlier this year and was impressed. The cannons look well.
Anyway, to cut a long story short, as they say, the article I read includes a passage
“cast iron is a material that responds well to chemical stabilisation. Thus after stripping off the old paint, original metal surfaces could be treated to remove active corrosion. Applications of thin but highly impermeable protective materials prepared the guns for return to display.”
Does anyone know
* are old anchors (the very traditional shape) made of cast iron ;
* what is this magic substance that stabilises cast iron ;
* is there any way to lessen or shorten the horrible task of removing the paint I have applied (the anchor is HEAVY) ; and
* is the salt water element an added problem that makes my job even tougher ?
Knotman, your country needs you,
Yours in humility (the greatest of all my virtues)
DWalsh

[dermotfinn]

It really depends on how much money and work you are willing to put in to its restoration. I really don\'t know much about conservation but here is a link that may help:
http://www.buildingconservation.com/art ... onwork.htm

Chemical Cleaning
With careful selection and application of materials, chemicals offer an effective, controllable method of cleaning. A strongly alkaline sodium hydroxide solution (caustic soda) is sufficient to remove drying oil coatings. A range of proprietary products usually based around dichloromethane (methylene chloride) is used to break down oil and resin paints as well as re-liquefy vinyl and bitumen. Chemical cleaning of large areas usually involves dipping the ironwork in a solution bath while smaller areas can be treated with gels.

Acid solutions are occasionally applied to remove or stabilise corrosion but care must be exercised when using acids to avoid any potentially damaging contact with sound material. On completion of chemical treatments the metal must be thoroughly cleaned of residues which would otherwise subvert the new coating.

[Maurice]

My bobs worth... I, some years ago, found on a skip in the Donnybrook area, the cast metal ends of a Victorian bench. Turns out they were founded in the Richard Turner foundry in Ballsbridge, of note are the many Glasshouse complexes and Curvalinear ranges that were produced here for various Gardens, Botanic and otherwise (2 of the finest in National Botanic Gardns in Glasnevin, also in Belfast Bot\'s too) they were destened for the central train station in St. Petersburg (where most still reside). Anyway....... I brought these to an antique engineering place on Francis St and had them \"SHOT BLASTED\"... a bit like sand blasting only with little metal ball-bearings. Worked a treat. Cleaned them down to the bone, they had a single coat of oxide paint then and still to this day look as if they are showroom quality. Maurice.

[tee]

David

have the thing shot blasted then galvanised or in common parlance, \"dipped\". Surely, in the metropolitan Dublin area, one can find a man to take it away to such places as will carry out the necessary operations and return it to you forthwith (or within a day or two).

I am told if you prefer to paint after shotblasting
a) it\'s better if it were done quickly before the rusting process takes hold ie immediately
b) the paint will bond more efficaciously if the metal is heated. Presumably because the surface will be well dried and the heat helps the paint to cure.

Of course the obvious moral is to only find anchors made of stainless steel or marine grade anodised aluminium and avoid these unseemly public exchanges.

yours etc.
G de S.

[DaveWalsh]

Gerry
Where in the name of God would one find a large old anchor in Dublin ?
The anchor is in rural (western) Ireland, about 15 yards from the HWS tidemark and overlooking a small stone pier.
Gratefully
DWalsh

[martinguilfoyle]

if the anchor cannot go to the cleaners then the cleaners must go the anchor.
Chipping hammers, wire brushes, (You can get these to fit on power drills) and other odds.
Locate anchor, chip scaled rust, wire brush until clean, wash off with some sort of solvent/degreaser until clean and dry and then apply finishing coats to requirements.
Loads of effort and elbow grease.
How about \"an anchor restoring weekend\"
I am busy until 2015.
Martin

[DaveWalsh]

2016 it is so.
DW

[DesKeaney]

I think the anchor Dave is talking about is a big thing, not to be casually put under ones arm and carried away. I\'d suspect any treatment will have to be done where it is (on top of a mound overlooking the bay). I\'d also suspect it\'s been quite a while out of the water which may have helped with the salt impregnation.

[DaveWalsh]

The anchor is about 5 feet heigh. One person would never lift it into a wheelbarrow. One very strong person might wheel the barrow unaided, but I certainly needed help all the way. I would guess 80kg. It is the traditional anchor shape, but the cross piece that prevents it lying flat is gone. I have no idea how old it is, but it doesn\'t feel right to do nothing about it.
DWalsh

[martinguilfoyle]

Dave, on a serious note, if you are down west in the new year and want a hand to lift drag or levitate this antiquity to a suitable location, I would be willing to volunteer for a cup of tea and a few biscuits.
Faith can move mountains but I cannot find her tel.no.
Martin